Henry HALL's 1879 diary on the barque LEBU from England to Auckland
Henry HALL's 1879 diary on the barque LEBU from England to Auckland
typed by Charmaine HALL
Henry’s family is up at
Henry has ID 3 there, and Charmaine’s husband appears there as
381 Geoffrey Leslie HALL 1945 m Charmaine Anne CLARKE
Thank you both so much for sharing this treasure!
Here are Henry and his wife c1890 from collection of Geoff HALL:
The Diary of the barque “Lebu”
Voyage from 1st July to 24th October 1879
By Henry Hall
Left London midday July 1st. Was tugged up the Thames by the steam tug Libisine. We anchored at Gravesend where an exchange of pilots took place. All on board first class and in great spirits at the thought of a voyage so far. Passed over the place where the Princess Alice was lost. Saw hundreds of smart craft plying backwards and forwards. We took a cargo of gunpowder on board and a supply of fresh meat. A great many homeward bound ships were anchored about.
July 2nd 1879
Left Gravesend as above. Was tugged up to the downs where we again dropped anchor & through the wind being so unfavourable we were obliged to stop 3 days before we dare again venture.
July 5th
We weighed anchor at 4pm and again tried to sail out but the wind still against us. We were beating about the channel until the 10th after having experienced some very heavy gales, sea running right over the vessel we had travelled something like 150 miles but had only made our way as far as St Helens Bay, Isle of Wight. A beautiful harbour and good for us to get anchored as the following day we saw a very heavy gale. Most passengers very sick. We could not get on deck on account of the very heavy seas we shipped. The waves broke on the fore castle and washed right aft and over her midships taking all that was loose with them. I counted over 200 vessels at anchor. Saw a ship tugged up for anchor that had met with a collision in the channel with her jib cut right of & her bulwark struck right through. She seemed to be water logged and laboured very heavily in smooth water.
July 15th 1879
Tuesday morning 4am we got under way. Light wind sailing about 3 knots per hour. Had some difficulty sailing as the wind kept changing every 2 or 3 hours. A very thick fog came on for which we could not see 100 yds off. You could constantly hear the watch sounding the fog horn. A vessel on the lee bow, called the watch. Could not see the ship but made it out by hearing her horn in reply to our own. “Bout ship” was cried by the captain which means reverse the ships sails. Sailors came hurrying first to one lot of ropes and then to another lot of ropes which looks enough to puzzle 100 heads. The waves washed right over our midships. Sickness again came on and took life out of all passengers. What a change is observed within about half an hour. Tried to stand it out but were obliged to give in to the elements of the sea.
July 18th 1879 Friday
Lat 48’26N Longitude 7’11W
miles from Lizard. Blowing a strong gale for 4 hours very heavy seas were
seen and felt. The ship rose and bounded over the seas in a manner surprising to a stranger to the waves. Seasickness still continues. One old woman had become almost insensible as to where she was while a puff of wind came and took her hat of and she beheld it skimming over the waves. 8 bells sounded and all very quiet.
July 19th 1879 Saturday
Lat 46’45N Long 7’50W
Dist 115 miles from 12 to 12 o’clock.
Enters beautiful weather. 8 bells & travelling at 4 ½ knots per hour increases to 8 ½ per hour. Are now in the Bay of Biscay and experiencing very heavy gales. Speed to 10 knots per hour. Continues til 6am. From 6 very fine but a very strong wind in our favour blowing us through the water like a cockle shell. Plenty of dolphins seen.
July 20th 1879 Sunday
Lat 46’45N Long 7’50W Distance 115 miles
Enters very rough with a very rough sea. Service on board as usual conducted by the captain. A harmonium is on board. A great distinction is shown between Sundays and weekdays. The passengers and crew are all dressed up as on shore. Several vessels are in sight. We had to beat to and sail out of our latitude to catch the wind. Evening is much calmer. Sailing in a direct line to our destination. 8 bells and all quiet.
July 21st 1879 Monday
Lat 43’48 Long 10’48
Course S Distance 160 miles
Weather very fair all day. We are just about entering in the north east trade winds. Several vessels in sight. Wind still blowing in the right tack. A concert got up by passengers and crew was given on the forecastle. Sky is quite a picture. Sun beautiful as we are approaching the warmer climate. 8 bells all quiet.
July 22nd 79 Tuesday
Lat 31’40N Long 13’5W
Course S38W Dist 163 Miles
Enter beautiful and fine going at the rate of 7 ½ Knots per hour. We are now in the north east trade winds and the ship cuts through the waves beautiful. Sun shining all day with great power bringing all passengers on deck with their broad brimmed sun hats on looking quite a picture. 2 ships passed us going same way. Time seems quite a drag to the people so far. No knowing what they will do if they have to spend another 3 or 4 months on the sea which is quite possible.
July 23rd 79 Wednesday
Lat 39’33 Long 16’5W Dist 186 Miles Dark at 8.30
Sea as calm as a fish pond . Very high seas and warm. We sighted a vessel about 10 miles ahead of us at 4pm. We passed her and left her out of sight in about 2 hours. Passengers created a swing and enjoyed themselves in the best way they can. Very little wind which caused the sails to flap about like a lost bird. 6.10 sails reversed which caused us to travel about 4 knots per hour.
July 24th Thursday
Lat 37’30 Long 18’3W Course S37W Distance 164
Enters fine and continues all day. Light at 4pm dark at 8.30 am. There is no twilight here, comes and goes all in about 5 minutes. We are now in the North Atlantic Ocean. We had a nice paper read to us in the cabin titled A Run to Calcutta and was much liked. Captain took the chair. Ship rolls about very much just like a cradle reminding us of our younger days. No ships in sight. Passengers have become quite used to the mode of travelling.
July 25th 79 Friday
Lat 35’32 Long 19’33 Course 329W Dist 147 miles
Enters with a fine breeze and much warmer. Rest of day very calm and no ships in sight. We again imagine we are in a cradle for she rocks so. Still we enjoy it going at the rate of 6 knots per hour. Tis expected we shall cross the line in about 2 weeks or so.
July 26th 79 Saturday
Lat 33’3 Long 20’12 Course S18W Dist 107
Enters very hot, about 90 degrees. Clouds look quite beautiful No sail in sight all day. Some of our sails were taken on account of the wind blowing straight from the poop. Ship as bright and as clean as a bell.
July 27th 79 Sunday
Lat 31’13 Long 21’12Course S18W Dist 108
Light at 4.30 Enters with a very nice wind and very steady travelling. Service on board at 11am conducted by passengers and also service in cabin at 4pm conducted by captain. Going at 4 knots per hour. Weather still very beautiful. Increasing in heat about 7 degrees and shall experience some hotter weather. Passengers parade deck with nothing on but linen clothes. We are on look out for a sail so that we can write home but have seen none yet. Sea very steady.
July 28th 79 Monday
Lat 28’30 Long 22’12 Dist 170
Light at 4.35. Much cooler with a nice breeze blowing us about 7 knots per hour. Ship steady. Sun powering down with great power from 5am to 7pm. Going at 7 ½ knots per hour. Wind coming from aft. Saw 2 sharks. Evening much cooler. Ship rocks very much. No sails in sight yet. Dark at 8.10. Darkness comes on all at once and the same with light. Sailors are making ship all tight so as to be prepared when we are running the eastern down.
July 29th 79 Tuesday
Lat 35’32 Long 23’38 Dist 191
Light at 5.5 am. Blowing very heavy. Seas right over our midships. We get wet and dry through in a very short time. Going at 9 ½ knots. Ship rolls heavily. Out of the 191 miles above, we only advanced 25 miles nearer Auckland. The top gallant spar broke in two but did not fall. Had it taken down which caused us to loose speed. Flying fish seen in schools. We are supposing to be in the tropics by 7am. Heat increasing.
July 30th 79 Wednesday
Lat 22’37 Long 24’35W Course S2W Dist 186
Enters rough at 5am. Waves dashing and lashing about our ship in a manner as if they would devour us. Concert on board tonight at 7 in cabin. Flying fish in shoals and ….. as well. Seen no sail in sight. Wind still blowing from poop which stops us from going at any great speed. A side wind is much preferable then our jib sails could be brought into use. The days are very hot and night very chilly which is always the case in the tropics or near them. Very busy on deck in making the new top gallant spar.
July 31st 79 Thursday
Lat 19’48 Long 25’41W Course S20W Dist 180
Enters very boisterous travelling and very slow during the day. We had a lecture at night given by the Captain in cabin titled “The Rev S Lowel Brown”. Our condensing engine is now working as the water is as thick as sludge which is unfit for us to use to wash ourselves in.
Aug 1 79 Friday
Lat 18’16 Long 26’41 Course S30W Dist 108
This month enters with scarcely a breath of air to be had. We are scarcely making any way at all. Going about 1 knot per hour. Our new spar is up now and we are doing a little better. A few passengers have got hammocks and are sleeping on deck at night. We are still in the tropics. Heat almost unbearable. No sails in sight. The sea is so calm that you can scarcely feel any motion of the ship at all. The most lovely sight I ever saw is the sun set in the tropics. The water seems to be on mass of shining silver.
Aug 2nd 79 Saturday
Lat 16’50 Long 27’13 Course S20W Dist 92
Enters very hot. Not a breath of air stirring. Light at 5.20 Dark at 7.15. It is almost passed sleeping below for tis so hot. Sea is as still as a duck pond. Caught some flying fish which have flown onto the deck during the night. Are like eating fresh herring. A lecture given by captain in cabin 7pm
Aug 3rd 79 Sunday
Lat 15’11 Long 27’33W Course S11W Dist 101
Enters with a little more air but hotter if anything. You perspire as you stand in the shade. We sighted a vessel to leeward. She appeared to be a homeward bound one but were too far off to exchange letters. A nice breeze is blowing now. 2 more ships in sight. We exchanged signals with one. She proved to be the ship Chinaman of London bound for Melbourne. We left her behind.
Aug 4th 79 Monday
Lat 13’5 Long 28’10 Course 68 Dist 130
Light at 5.40 Very cold morning. At 6 we had a very heavy squall bursting in torrents all over the ship. One not used to the tropics. Would call it teeming down instead of raining. We are going at the rate of 12 ½ knots for 2 hours. A good many dolphins seen. Heat still fearful. It is now a dead calm. We sighted a vessel to leeward. She appeared to be at a standstill. She was making her way to America I think.
Aug 5th 79 Tuesday
Lat 12’12N Long 28’32W Course SE70 Dist 54
Light at 5.40. Dark at 6.45 Enters with a very nice breeze which is welcomed by all as each one seems to be drinking the wind as they would a nice glass of cooling drink at home
Aug 6th 79 Wednesday
Lat 9’51 Long 27’57 Course SE2 Dist 141
Light at 5.40 Dark at 6.30. Enters with a much welcomed wind and are doing good travelling all day. Each one wishing it may not be long before it blows us out of the tropics. A great many porpoises seen. 7.30 going at 10 ½ knots per hour as we have every bit of canvass filled with wind.
Aug 7th 79 Thursday
Lat 7’16 Long 27’13 Course SE16 Dist 161
Light at 6 Dark at 6.15. Enters with good wind and raining in torrents. Very hot. Still going at 11 knots per hour. Our ship keeps diving under the waves & shipping waves right over the forecastle. All have to be cautious when venturing to the fore part of the ship or else they might get washed over board.
Aug 8th 79 Friday
Lat 6’31 Long 24’40 Course SE 74 Dist 159
Enters very rough. Shipping heavy seas all day. We saw a ship pass close by us. Our captain signalled to them and she proved to be a French vessel bound for London from the East Indies.
Aug 9th 79 Saturday
Lat 5’3 Long 26’46W Course SW 55 Dist 154
Light at 5.35 Dark at 6.25. Enters with a strong breeze. We sighted several Portuguese men of war. Heat almost unbearable. Rain came on and continued for several hours and not the kind of rain we get on shore but sheets of water. No one can imagine what the tropical rain is unless they have experienced them. They come on without a any warning at all. Today is something like being on a horse (?) Sailors have done all and all is neat and clean.
Aug 10th 79 Sunday
Lat 3’4N Long 28’53W Course SW47 Dist 174
Light at 6.45 Dark at 6.15. Enters with a nice breeze and continues all day. Service on board as usual and all very quiet. Sighted again several Portuguese men of war. We are fast approaching the line of Brazil where it is supposed we shall sight the island of St Pauls. We are at 12pm only 3 degrees from the line or 181 ¾ miles.
Aug 11th 79 Monday
Lat 0’37N Long 30’30W Course SW33 Dist 180
Enters very fine and a nice breeze. We are in the NE trade winds. Travelling from 8 to 8 ½ knots per hour. The sea is as calm as a fish pond. One would almost think they were on shore. The morning dawn is beautiful. Another thing occurs quite contrary to one who has never crossed the ocean. That is one would think they could see as far as the eye could carry them, but not so. You appear to be in a round basin travelling and getting no further.It appears to be about 7 miles in diameter and looks to be going up hills and nothing more can be seen.
Aug 12th 79 Tuesday
Lat 4’28 Long 32’48W Course SW23 Dist 216
Enters with a good breeze and are improving in speed. The crew are making all tight and trim so as to be prepared for running the Eastern down as we are in the right time of the year for some rough sailing. We are now opposite the south coast of America which causes us to keep changing our coarse. We keep sailing over the same water time after time so as to steer clear of the Brussels Rocks. 100’s of quails is to be seen above.
Aug 13th 79 Wednesday
Lat S9 Lon 33’16W Course Sw16 Dist 191
Light at 6.35 Dark at 6.10. Enters with a good breeze. Bout ship is given and we again change our course as the wind keeps driving us too near shore. We want to be 9 degrees more west than what we are of the Cape. We appear to be just in one latitude and we cannot get out of it which makes it hard work for the crew. We bout ship no less than 7 times on one day. All continue t o be still in first class health and doing well.
Aug 14th 79 Thursday
Lat 6’31S Long 34’23W Course SW 25 Dist 157
Enters with a good breeze. Our boat diving and shipping very heavy seas over the forecastle. We are driven out of our course close to the south coast of America. Can see land quite plain. 12.45 ship labours very heavy and rolls very much. A reading given by Mr. ……. At 7pm in cabin.
Aug 15th 79 Friday
Lat 6’40S Long 32’2W Course SE82 Dist 82
Enters very rough. Ship tossing making it almost impossible to stand without some support. Still very hot making many of passengers fly to the deck to get their meals at 6.30 am. We sighted a vessel on our lee bows. It was a homeward bound ship and appeared to be labouring under heavy seas. Our crew have christened our ship the diving bell on account of her pushing into the waves and shipping so much water.
Aug 16th 79 Saturday
Lat 7’52S Long 34’11W Course SW28 Distance 82
Light at 6.5 am Dark at 6.10. Enters very rough and are making very little headway. We are being driven right up to the coast of Brazil and can see the town quite plain. A very heavy squall comes on for about an hour after which the wind changes in our favour. We sight 3 ships which were homeward bound. We had our fore jib sail blown in pieces during another squall in which we shipped heavy seas.
Aug 17th 79 Sunday
Lat 9’22 Long 35’E Course 28 SW Dist 102
Enters very rough indeed. You can scarcely lay in your bunk to sleep for she keeps pitching and tossing so much and continues so all day. Passengers are all out of sight in their bunks reading and trying to sleep.
Aug 18th 79 Monday
Lat 11’45S Long 35’44W Course SW17 Dist 150
Enters as yesterday very rough. Can scarcely walk on deck at all. 12pm we are going 11 ½ knots per hour, a furious rate in rough seas. Waves come crashing over our bulwarks coming from the fore part of the ship taking everything with them. We had to change our course no less that 5 times in one day. Towards evening another of our jib sails was blown in ribbons giving things an awful aspect.
Aug 19th 79 Tuesday
Lat 14’32 Long 37’17W Course Sw28 Dist 190
Enters rather milder than yesterday. No vessels in sight. Wind coming and going all day. At 12.30 a dead calm and at 2.20 a slight breeze and so on all day. We are obliged to keep travelling the same waters over again so as to keep the ship from going too near the coast. 6.30 going 4 ½ knots per hour
Aug 20th 79 Wednesday
Lat 17’18 Long 38’18W Course SW20 Dist 170
Enters rough and keeps so til 10.30 From 10.30 to 2.45 a dead calm. Sea as smooth as a duck pond. Large quantities of porpoises and 2 whales as well. Evening going at 8 ½ knots per hour. One more of our spars is giving way and another one is being prepared for its place.
Aug 21st 79 Thursday
Lat 17’50S long 38’15W Course Sw5 Dist 32
Continues rough up to 8.30. Wind dies away and a dead calm continues for 3 hours. A slight wind about 6.30. 7 o’clock a very strong breeze springs up. All hands on deck as a gale is fast approaching. We sighted 3 islands. Suppose to belong to Brazil.
Aug 22nd 79 Friday
Lat 20’41 Long 37’28W Course SW15 Dist 177
Enters with a nice breeze. Been travelling all night about 10 ½ knots. We sighted a vessel to windward at 5.30am. We had our fore sail blown to shreds which was replaced by a new one. A reading was given by Mr Seaver in the cabin.
Aug 23rd 79 Saturday
Lat 23’49 Long 39’22W Course Se18 Dist 198
Enters boisterous but making a good speed. Very fine weather. The crew were at work up to 12 at night in getting up the new spar which is called the upper top gallant spar. Nothing more of importance occurred.
Aug 24th 79 Sunday
Lat 26’46 Long 34’11W Course SE24 Dist 213
Enters with a nice breeze. We had been going 13 ½ Knots during a squall in the night. Today beautiful and calm. Service as usual in cabin.
Aug 25th 79 Monday
Lat 28’32 Long 33’46 Course SE55 Dist 129
Enters with a very nice breeze and sailing at a moderate speed which continues all day. A beautiful night and a more lovely sunset I never witnessed which occurred at 5.25.
Aug 26th 79 Tuesday
Lat 30’18 Long 31’4 Course SE40 Dist 138
Enters as yesterday and continues up to 1.45 when we had a good shower or rather a light squall. We have the cape pigeons visiting us. Sone of the passengers have caught a good many with a piece of cotton which they let out and the cotton gets entangled in their wings.
Aug 27th 79 Wednesday
Lat 31’24 Long 26’37 Course SE 74 Dist 238
Enters very squally and very cold. We are now according to the chart 900 miles from the Cape. The wind is blowing us out of our tack. Altogether we are close on the south coast of America. Nothing of importance occurred during the day.
Aug 28th 79 Thursday
Lat 32’15 Long 32’50 Course SE75 Dist 200
Enters as yesterday very squally and uncomfortable for the passengers. Ship rocking very much. All our sails except our lower top sails and fore jib sails were taken in on account of the wind being too unfavourable and kept blowing us out of our tack.
Aug 29th 79 Friday
Lat 31’55 Long 31’7 Course NE76 Dist 81
Enters still as yesterday. We can scarcely make any headway at all. We had our fore sail blown to shreds, it being an old one, but the ship is very well provided with new ..
Aug 30th 79 Saturday
Lat 31’24 Long 19’8 Course NE73 Dist 107
Enters as before and shipping heavy seas. Our upper top sail is carried away. Great difficulty is experienced to passengers in getting on deck for the ship keeps diving and going at a furious rate for a few minutes and then a full stop.
Aug 31st 79 Sunday
Lat 31’22 Long 16’49 Dist 119
Enters same again. Shipping very heavy seas from the fore part of the ship. Service could not be carried on in the cabin on account of the rocking of the ship, for we could not carry our stay sails at all for it would drive us on shore, by account of a few passengers who have been before say that our captain has steered us too near shore all the way.
Sep 1st 79 Monday
Lat 31’57 Long 14’10 Course SE76 Dist 140
Enters with a slight change. The wind is now in our favour and are making the best use of our time. The sailors have been working day and night in bending new sails as we are expecting to have some rough weather before long as the thermometer keeps changing so suddenly.
Sep 2nd 79 Tuesday
Lat 33’30 Long 10’2 Course SE66 Dist 226
Enters as yesterday and continues so all day. The sailors find it laborious work in such weather for it is reverse ship one way and then the other way and makes all confusion.
Sep 3rd 79 Wednesday
Lat 34’49 Long 5’31 Course SE71 Dist 238
Enters very rough and continues so up to 3.30 then the sun shines for about 2 hours. One of the most beautiful rainbows I ever saw in my life was witnessed today and slight showers and so on all rest of day.
Sep 4th 79 Thursday
Lat 36’7 Long 2’39 Dist 160
Enters beautiful and fine. Turns out dreadful and rough rest of day.
The seas keep washing over the ship and taking all before them. The passengers can hear it quite plain. Sounds dreadful, as if you were immersed in the sea altogether.
Sep 5th 79 Friday
Lat 37’42 Long 5’0 E Course SE Dist 107
Enters moderate weather doing good sailing. Several squalls during day. Very cold
Morning and evening with advance of more degrees colder and hail stones come as big as marbles. It is very frosty in the morning.
Sept 6th 79 Saturday
Lat 38’ 42 Long 39’ 42 E Course SE Dist 144
Enters very rough. Heavy squalls during day going at 13 ½ knots at 9 o’clock. All sails but main & foresheets take in. All our strong sails are now bent & are fully prepared for running the eastern down. I think we shall get to the Cape about 2 or 3 on Wednesday morning. Ship rocking in awful manner for we cannot carry our stay sails on account of the squallish weather.
Sept 7th 79 Sunday
Lat 40’33 Long 8’14 E Course SE Dist 251
Enters very rough. Indeed the ships rolling in a very unpleasant manner. Shipping very great seas at our midships and aft as well. They had to have 2 men at the wheel as one could not steer her by himself. Got a good bath while passing to the cabin everything was soaking wet I had on. A squall at 1.30. All passengers are kept below as it is not safe on deck to unexperienced persons on a ship.
Set 8th 79
Lat 41’1 Long 12’8 Course SE Dist 181
Enters still rough shipping heavy seas. Sailing …to 3am with only our fore sheet and our top gallants up. A very heavy sqall at … rained for an hour. Ship is under full sail now and is skudding just like a … 6.30 wind freshens up doing good sailing. The crew tonight to have coffee at 12 o’clock and cabin as well on account of the intense cold
Sept 9th 79 Tuesday
Lat 41’5 Long 14’3 Course SE Dist 126
Enters very rough and continues so up to 8.30 from then up to 5 as calm as a fish pond. We are now expecting to have some rough weather as we are nearing the Cape of Good Hope very fast. It is nothing now to see the sea wash right over our midships, in fact cover the decks with water up to the half deck.
Sept 10th 79 Wednesday
Lat 41’2 Long 19’40 Course SE Dist 216
Enters very rough. Shipping heavy seas now & then. Continues so up to 3.30 and then moderately fair wind dying away now and then. Passengers are playing a game of take & touch so as to keep themselves warm as the weather gets colder & colder as we advance.
Sept 11th Thursday
Lat 41’2 Long 21’8 E Course SE Dist 207
Enters very rough indeed and dreadfully cold but getting warmer towards evening. Days were shortening a few weeks ago but are now lengthening as we keep passing from one climate to another. Wonderful changes to people who have never crossed the sea before.
Set 12th 79 Friday
Lat 41’19 Long 29’10 Course E Dist 204
Enters very fine and not quite so rough as yesterday. Very cold indeed enough to …. your fingers of. Passengers keep …. up to the galley doors to get a mouthful of warm air. A great difference to what it was a few weeks ago when we were in the tropics when they slept on deck with it being so hot and now the reverse as is cold.
Sept 13th 79 Saturday
Lat 41’58S Long 3`’6E Course NE Dist 89
Enter very fine and calm going about 4 knots per hour. Have been going very slow all day. Passengers enjoyed themselves by catching pigeons & molly….. 1 molley… was caught, they are as big as a very large goose.
All our sails are set and cannot get any wind much. We are just passing a very dangerous part where many ships have been sunk but I thank god we are doing well. Hoping for further success
Sept 14th Sunday
Lat 41’21 Long 33’0 Course SE Dist 88
Enters with a dead calm a thing most extraordinary in the east as it is supposed to be the roughest part we have to sail over. It is the calmest day we have had since we left. The sea is beautifully calm and ship so steady. Service was held on board today and all seemed to be enjoying the Sunday our maker has given us. So beautiful and warm in comparison to what we should be having. Hundreds of pigeons & molly… were flying about and a lot caught & put on deck and run about as they cannot fly of the deck when once on. Had 2 to our dinner & was very good.
Sept15th 79 Monday
Lat 42’54S Long 36’21E Course SE Dist 150
Enters as yesterday with a dead calm. We had made a little headway during night, rather better than you would expect considering the calm we had in day time. Everything going on very steady & comfortable. Nothing of importance occurred during day.
Spt 16th 79 Tuesday
Lat 42’58 Long 37’65 Course E Dist 69
Enters as yesterday with a dead calm until 4.30 and then a squall … comes on making it very unpleasant for sailors and passengers. You see all hands on deck.
Sept 17th 79 Wednesday
Lat 43’46 Long 40’58 Course SE Dist 156
Enters very rough indeed & very cold as well. Sailors been working all night and have had a hard nights work reefing and unreefing the sails which is no easy job when the wind is blowing a hurricane fit to blow a man to pieces.
Sept 18th 79 Thursday
Lat 44’11 Long 47’14 Course SE Dist 224
Enters very rough indeed and cold as …. The crew have been up 3 nights under way shortening & making sail. At 6.20 she was skudding along at a good rate of 11 knots per hour to 3.35 in afternoon and then wind very steady up to 6.20 and rest of evening rocking in the …. just like a washing tub in a strong stream. No one can imagine the roughness of the sea unless they have experienced a similar voyage.
Sept 19th 79 Friday
Lat 44’19s Long 51’0e Course E Dist 216
Enters very rough indeed and very cold as well. Passengers have no fire at all in their mess room. The sea is running mountains high. I could not give you any idea of the awful sight the sea presents but wave after wave coming over the ship in a dreadful manner and making the ship appear to be sinking. The ship appears to be sailing in a great valley of water, valley after valley the sea presents to the eye.
Sept 20th 79 Saturday
Lat 44’50 Long 55’05sse Course SE Dist 211
Enters very rough indeed. Seas washing right over our midships all day. Carrying nothing but main and fore topsail until 4am and then under full canvas. Wind coming right from aft. Ship rocking in an awful state making it impossible to walk or stand without some support. Passengers spend most of the time in bed and can scarcely keep in the bunks with the rocking of the ship.
Sept 21st 79 Sunday
Lat 43’34 Long 59’ E Course E Dist 163
Enters almost with a calm in our right course up to 7.30 and from then 2 ½ points west of our course. Very fine indeed but very cold. Service on board. Nothing of importance occurred during the day. At 1.45 a breeze surprisingly blowing us about
4 ½ points out of our latitude and continues rest of the day.
Sept23rd 79 Monday
Lat 45’34 Long 59’14 Course SE Dist 33
Enters very boisterous and cold. The wind is driving us due south about 8 points out of our latitude. We are making sail as fast as we can in hopes of catching the east wind which is supposed to last for some time. Two of our crew are laid up with sickness. Passengers are all first class but have something to do to keep themselves warm as we are now among the icebergs. We have had up to now very bad luck. If we get in a fair east wind we may be in Auckland in about three weeks.
Sept 23rd 79 Tuesday
Lat 46’14 Long 59’36 Course SE Dist 48
Enters with due south winds as of yesterday up to 8.25 and a change occurred with the wind in our favour and all are hoping it will continue for some time. If it continues for a few days we shall be in a warmer climate altogether.
Sept 24th 79 Wednesday
Lat 46’58 Long 66’33 Course SE Dist 269
Enters with a good wind and continues so all day. Doing good travelling on our night course the wind was from aft. Men who have sailed for 20 years over the same waters say that they never saw or experienced such calm weather in running the eastern down. According to what the officers say that in running the eastern down it is the roughest part of the year but instead of rough weather we have & have had very calm weather indeed.
Sept 25th 79 Thursday
Lat 46’22S Long 69’26E Course E Dist 142
Enters with a very light wind going about 5 knots per hour and at 2.30 2 ½ per hour. Ship rocking very much all day. The weather is very cold almost enough to freeze one. It snowed about ¾ hour. The time in this part is much behind the time in England. We are 8 ½ hours behind you so you will be going to bed when we are getting up. The time is taken from the sun every day.
Sept 26th 79 Friday
Lat 46’30 Long 73’45 Course E Dist 178
Enters with a good wind & very cold. Shipping much water. Ship rocking very much & reefing and unreefing sails all day as wind keeps changing every 1 or 2 hours
Sept 27th 79 Saturday
Lat 46’36 Long 79’40 Course E Dist 227
Enters very rough and cold. Going at a moderate rate. Ship rocking very much and shipping much water at our midships. Decks are never dry. Sailors had a very hard night of it.
Sept 28th 79 Sunday
Lat 46’56 Long 85’32e Course E Dist 240
Enters very rough and cold. We experienced one of the roughest days we have encountered so far. Shipping seas every few minutes and very large one at times.
Very few passengers on deck, no service on board. Things flying about in all directions. We had a dreadful night of it. Our fore sail was split with the wind. The ship rocked in an alarming manner. Evening beautiful but cold – 8 o’clock we had snow.
Sept 29th 79 Monday
Lat 47’35 Long 90’35 Course SE Dist 208
Going at a fair speed all night. Enter with the same wind which will carry us to Auckland in about 24 days if it continues
6.15 we had a very large sea washed over our midships. The largest we have had yet.
10.30 a very heavy snow falls. Wind increases and drives us at a terrific speed, wind from aft, sea following us washing right over the poop up to midships. Wind still increasing and nearly all sail taken in at 8.20
Sept 30th 79 Tuesday
Lat 48’17 Long 95’51 Course SE Dist 219
Enters foggy & wet. Going a good speed all night and still doing a good speed. A very high sea running from aft. Shipping a good deal of water. From 9.30 a very good wind which continues all day & night. The greatest force of wind seems to come mostly at night. Squalls occur generally at 10 at night and 2 in morning. This is the fourth day we have had the luck to be over 200 knots (?). Distance we have made in 4 days is 894 knots which is considered very good for a craft like ours, her greatest speed she can go is 12 knots.
Oct 1st 79 Wednesday
Lat 48’1 Long 99’50 Course NE Dist 153
Enters as yesterday with a good wind and very nice sea. Ship very steady as she is skudding along like a …. Not quite so cold as it was yesterday. We had a very heavy gale about 2 this morning blowing sea mountains high. From 4 at night wind drops and we have nothing but a dead calm. Very foggy from 6 to next day. Can scarcely see a hand below you. A nasty drizzly rain accompanies the fog.
Oct 2nd 79 Thursday
Lat 47’39S Long 102’21E
Enters very foggy and with rain. Scarcely a breath of wind blowing us along about 5 knots. 10.30 rain. 12.25 wind increases about 2 more knots per hour and continues until 4.45 then wind increases blowing us about 11 knots. We have got every stitch of canvas set with a fair wind to Auckland
Oct 3rd 79 Friday
Lat 48’6s Long 106 49e Course SE Dist 181
Enters with a fair wind going about 7 knots. Light at 5.15 and dark at 6.15
Wind increases at 5.45 when we have a hail storm which lasts for about 10 minutes. To look at the sea when the moon is shining upon it is quite a beautiful sight.
About 4 degrees cooler than yesterday. Heavy snow storm at 6.10, lasted for about 5 minutes. Remainder of evening very fine except at 9.30 when we had a very heavy snow storm indeed, flakes as big as your hand.
Oct 4th 79 Saturday
Lat 48’16s Long 111’45 Course SE Dist 219
Enters with a fine breeze, very cold, heavy snow storm at 4.30 in morning and continued for 20 minutes. Light at 5.15 dark at 6.45. It is hoped we shall have this wind to the end as our flour will only last about 2 more weeks and water as well and a great many other things as well. The fault of taking passengers in a chartered ship. Had it been the company’s own ship it would have been very different and been better provisioned. Very heavy snow storm all night and was freezing rest of evening. Much snow balling between crew and passengers.
Oct 5th 79 Sunday
Lat 48’16e Long 117’4 Course E Dist 211
Enters with a very nice breeze in a direct line to our destination. Very frosty and cold and good deal of snow on deck. Sea running very high. Light at 5 in morning, dark at 6.45. A beautiful thing to see the sunrise in morning, remainder of day very fair. Service on board as ship is steady.
Oct 6th 79 Monday
Lat 47’29 Long 122’6 Course NE Distance 207
Enters with a good breeze going 10 ½ knots per hour , wind still in the same quarter. Woman and child very bad with sore mouths and throats, all rest first class. It is very cold indeed. Down in passenger berths cannot have any fire on account of having a cargo of powder on board. We are steering right in the latitude of Australia. We have just passed the first line of Australia at 4pm
Oct 7th 79 Tuesday
Lat 46’55 Long 26’53 Course NE Dist 197
Enters with a very good breeze and a little warmer. Have got in a good wind which is driving us in a direct line to Auckland. Shall be at our destination in about 14 or 16 days if the wind continues. We have passed Cape Leeuwin, the first part of Australia and are just about in a line with Van Diemens Land now. Every thing and every one going on all right except one woman, W Driver who is very near her confinement but it is hoped it will not occur until we reach Auckland.
Oct 8th 79 Wednesday
Lat 46’5 Long 132’05 Course NE Dist 253
Enters with the same breeze as yesterday going at 8 to 11 knots per hour, weather very fine. W. Driver was delivered of a daughter at 11.30 Tuesday night and both doing well. Going at 10 and easing from 12 down to 9 ½ all day. We have done the best days running today since we started. The wind is slightly working to our head. The wind is right up to Tasmania & then it will be a head wind unless it changes.
Oct 9th 79 Thursday
Lat 45’5s Long 38’25e Course NE Dist 240
Enters very squally. Going at 12 knots. The wind is blowing a gale. We may now expect some very dirty weather for about 6 or 7 days as the Australian coast is as rough a coast as can be. Nothing but squalls at this time of year is to be expected. Our main and fore topgallant & royals are furled, remainder we have full of wind & travelling beautifully from 4 to 11. She pitched dreadfully knocking everything about that was not lashed. From 8.30 to 10 a continual downpour of rain not like the rain we have at home but a sheet of water.
Oct 10th 79 Friday
Lat 44’55 Long 141’58e Course NE Dist 137
Enters very misty and wet and almost a dead calm. Ship pitching in a very unpleasant manner. We expect a sharp breeze at sunrise. A very sharp breeze from 7.30 to 4 and from then to 5.30 a dead calm for the rest of the evening. Going about 9 knots per hour.
Oct 11th 79 Saturday
Lat 44’4 Long 146’27 Course NE Dist 198
Enters very fine and much warmer, going very slow to 10.30 and from then about 9 knots per hour. Middle of day fine. Van Diemens Land was seen first at 5.30 and was in sight all day. At 3.40 could see the snow on the top of the hills. It is a very rocky place, the mountains size 100’s of feet above the seal Looking from the vessel it appears to be one solid mass of rocks and beautiful as well. We shall be at Auckland by next Saturday if we have the wind we have. I sketched the town as well as I could from the ship.
Oct 12th 79 Sunday
Lat 42’53 Long 149’22 Course E Dist 148
Enters beautiful and fine with a fine breeze of about 7 knots. We had a narrow escape of going on one of the rocks between Van Diemens Land and ….town at 2.30 & had there been no wind we should have drifted and been wrecked but our captain was called on deck and all was hustle and bustle. There were a great many projecting rocks. At 4.25 we had in sight …. Town or Cape Riverhead (?). We have had a splendid wind all day. We are about 1300 miles from our destination. Service on board today.
Oct 13th 79 Monday
Lat 40’57 Long 153’ 57 Course NE Dist 231
Enter with a first class breeze going about 10 knots per hour. Our fore royal was carried away during a heavy gale about 1.30………..
Has beautiful fine weather. If this breeze continues for a week we will be in Auckland and all passengers are looking forward to the time coming. Up to 7.10 we were going at 10 ½ knots so we cannot have a better wind. This is the best we have had so far. It is a breeze that does not cause our ship to take in water. Our water will only last for 6 more days and what we are drinking is so thick that you cannot see to the bottom of a cup.
Oct 14th 79 Sunday
Lat 38’54 Long 158’15 Course NE Dist 239
Enter with the same good breeze as yesterday going at 10 to 11 knots per hour. Very fine and warm & taking altogether very comfortable. We had the back stays carried away during a good blow of wind that supported the main mast. If there had been a squall at the time our main mast would have been in danger of going overboard. All going on very well no one could wish for a better wind or better weather.
Oct 15th 79 Wednesday
Lat 37’4 Long 162’31 Course NE Dist 228
Enters with the same breeze as yesterday. Wind slightly heading us if anything which will cause a delay if it continues. It is warmer every day. One of the crew has got the scurvy and all the rest are enjoying first class health. We had a fine porpoise hunt this evening. We harpooned one and nearly got him on deck when the harpoon gave way. He bled like a bullock. The water was stained with blood. No vessels in sight yet, First class sailing all day
Oct 16th 79 Thursday
Lat 36’5 Long 166’1 Course NE Dist 180
Enters with the same wind as yesterday. Weather beautiful and fine and very warm. Wind continues all day still working slightly ahead of us. We very likely shall see the 3 Kings tomorrow evening or early on Saturday morning. The crew all busy cleaning the ship from top to bottom previous to entering the docks. Much anxiety is shown by all passengers in respect to entering Auckland. All going on very well on board, all are in a way preparing for leaving the ship. This evening is the most beautiful starry evening we have had. We observed the southern cross quite plain.
Oct 17th 79 Friday
Lat 34’ 54 Long 169 35 Course NE Dist 171
Light at 4.40 dark at 7.30. Enters with a light breeze & going about 7 knots. Wind still working to our head. Beautiful & warm the morning is. The sea is very calm indeed. Our stores has been issued for 3 ½ days only so what we have to hope for is a very quick arrival or else we shall have to get to eat what we can. The wind at 4.30 having worked right before us so we progressing very slow.
Oct 18th 79 Saturday
Lat 34’19 Long 172’56 Course NE Dist 170
Enters very rough sailing against a head sea. We sighted the 3 Kings at 4.25 this morning and sailed close by them at 5.35. We sighted New Zealand at 8.5. Great sensations on board. Everyone anxious to have a first sight of their destination. 2 vessels in sight today. At 4.20 wind dies away. Vessel comes almost to a stand still. We can see the northernmost of New Zealand quite plain. This coast is supposed to be uninhabited.
Oct 19th 79 Sunday
Lat about same as yesterday
Enters without a breath of wind. Tis one of the finest & nicest days we have had. If this is the New Zealand weather no one could wish for better. We have been sailing over the same water with what little wind we have had all night so as to keep as near shore as we can. We are now close to the Bay of Islands now and presents to the eye a most beautiful prospect if looks are anything to go by. The ship now seems to be motionless, the sails are hanging all loose and has every appearance of being ….
3.30 a breeze springs up blowing us along about 3 ½ knots, at 4.25 going at 6 and at 9.30 wind dies away to 3 knots. Service on board as usual.
Oct 20th 79 Monday
No course or lat, long
Enters with a slight wind going about 3 ½ knots and about 2 points … her course. The morning very foggy but very close and warm. 4.45 wind freshens up a little, sending us along about 4 ½ knots. 4.50 no land in sight now. This last nights sailing has taken us out of our course about 4 ½ points. Our sailing between here and Auckland must be very cautious as there is many projecting rocks. Evening wind dies away altogether. The sea was so calm that you could not see a ripple in the water. The same continues until 1 o’clock when the sea changes and a good breeze comes on sending us along at about 6 ½ knots. We had in sight all day various rocks here and there.
Oct 21st 79 Tuesday
Enters with a fair wind blowing us along at 6 ½ knots. We continued to go so until about 10.30 when we were opposite the Great Barrier a noted rock or small island where we should have altered sail & gone round but our captain is what I call a deep sea captain for had we been nearer shore we could have been in Auckland by 2 0’clock today but being out so far a hurricane came on and blew us in the deep ocean again. The fact is our captain is afraid for we could have rounded the Great Barrier quite easily. We are going now 11 ½ knots. The ship & everything is in trim for entering the docks but if this wind continues we may be out for several days yet. 4.45 bout ship was given as the wind changed 4 ½ points so we once more begin to beat up again. We are almost fighting with a head wind but I think the wind will work up in our favour. I give the imaginary positions of the ship from Sunday. (These positions refer to sketch maps at the back of the diary)
A was the ships position when passing the Bay of Islands
B was the position when we squared our fore & main sails
C was the ships position when we again bouted ship to work our way into the opening that is left
D was when we got …. Ahead to get through the Greater Barrier
E was when we again reversed our sail to work our way back
F & G is as we are again beating up. Again it is the position we want to be in & if we can get up as far as the Barrier we shall be all right. At D the wind changed & blew us right of our tack being the cause of all the delay through the negligence
of the captain.
Oct 22nd 79 Wednesday
Enters very rough indeed. Very heavy storms, a large water spout formed about a mile from us & the wind broke it. We are running NW with very heavy seas. 7.25 wind changes & we bouted ship. 8.30 a dead calm 9.45 a wind springs up sending us 5 ½ knots. We are working our way up to the Great Barrier. It is time we landed as we are without water almost & that is the colour and thickness of brown paint & is making some of passengers ill. 4 of our crew are down with the skurvey. Now the cabin provisions are getting down, we have no flour, butter, potatoes, treacle, … & very little fresh meat. The meat we have is sometimes mutton & salt beef & biscuits so hard that it takes a good knock with a hammer to break them. The only way you can .. is to soak them and they require soaking 4 to 6 hours. The beef is fearful & salt for it is old stock that has been round the world 3 or 4 times so the mate says a piece weighing a pound before cooking will weigh when cooked 3 pounds for it … up so much.12.45 wind changes a bit in our favour we bout ship and again nearly get on our track. No land is seen yet. Today now the sun is shining on the water & looks like a fairly large ocean, We bouted ship again.
Oct 23rd 79 Thursday
Enters very fine but almost a dead calm, Sun very powerful. 6.25 sighted some rocks & land from the lower topsail yard. If the wind only freshens up a bit we shall be in dock today. We passed the Great Barrier & wind died away. We see rocks one each side & front & back. Rocks up & down & everywhere. It is I should think one of the dangerous places any ship could sail in. 7.30 we could see a light house on the Island ……..
Oct 24th 79 Friday
Enters at 2 in the morning with a nice breeze & from 2 to 3 we burned blue lights so as to signal to the pilot. We could just see him coming at 3.30. He arrived at 4.35 … The country seems to be all round about us & is one of the most splendid harbours & finest mountain scenery I have ever witnessed. In fact it is like entering in paradise. I hope everything may turn out as satisfactory. We had some splendid fish for our breakfast that the pilot brought. The ship that passed us at the 3 kings that was bound for Auckland arrived last Sunday and the company sent out 2 coasters (?) to look for us. They thought that we had got aground on the rock and were lost. Hills & vales are dotted all around us similar to Buxton & Matlock but a deal finer than any I have seen. The sea coast is what I never witnessed before. 12.30 we anchored in one of the most beautiful bays. In the … we are about 2 miles from the … where we will have to discharge our powder before we can enter the docks.
Oct 25th Saturday
Anchor weighed we move down to the powder grounds where we discharge our cargo of powder & we are delayed up to Monday morning because we have 2 cases of fire works on board but are fetched away on Monday. We weigh anchor again & move right down to the wharf where we make fast. The first sight of Auckland is what everyone wants to see and a great deal of bother is experienced in keeping passengers back as they want very much to tread the ground once more.
A view of the harbour & interior – Auckland from the wharf looks a scattered place & has the appearance of a newly inhabited mountainous country, a few buildings here & there as one would imagine it to contain only a few thousand of souls. The wharf is erected all of wood. You leave the end of the wharf & enter Queen Street, the principal street in Auckland and the only street in the city that has its stone & brick buildings. A great many of the buildings have a great look of buildings at home. The banks & stores & … vaults are the chief buildings. Leaving Queen St you enter in the suburbs of which buildings are very much scattered & are all of wood from top to bottom. The foundation is composed of wooden blocks driven into the ground & then cut off level & then the joists & so on which is all in wood except the chimney. There is no fire grate at all in the houses. The bricks are left bare & the boards as well. The way the people cook here is enough to puzzle anyone. They use what they call camp ovens, what people at home would call small boilers. The boiler is put down on the ground & piled over & around with sticks & coals. Some use sticks as a rule for coal is 1 pound or 1 pound 10 shillings per ton & contains a great deal of gum which makes them burn very quick. If they are left out in the rain they fall in pieces just like lime & they burn into a white ash just like the ashes of wood. Fire is not needed, only at meal times for the climate is plenty hot. At wash days a large boiler is placed at the back of the house outside & a fire heaped round it & so on. New Zealand as far as what I can see is one of the most beautiful climates in the world for anything will grow out of doors. The window plants we have at home you can see outside from 5 to 10 feet high such as geraniums & fuchsias in fact all kind of plants. The plant called camellia which needs so much care at home will grow outside without any trouble. Roses grow outside wild on every edge, almost what people at home would be glad to grow in their gardens. I gathered a beautiful bunch of wild roses just the same as they grow at home in the gardens.
The people in the colony are of a very independent nature & will not look at you if you ask them a question. They will give you a very shy answer. They are all sprung of a middle class and are as stuck up as can be. They seem and are as far as I can learn to hate a new colonist. The best for a person coming over is to make up their mind to keep their own counsel & let no one know how they are situated for if they know you are poor they will try & keep you there. Horses what you will pay 3/- at home for you must pay from 8/- to 11/- here & know …. Whatever. Beef & mutton cuts 4 pounds, I bought a nice leg of mutton for 1/6.
Taking eatables & wearables they are not a bit dearer than at home, taking everything in consideration living & all cost no more.
Labourers & navvys get from 6/6 to 7/- per day at rent market. Where we are joiners get 10/- to 11/- per day which is 2 miles from the city. On no account would I advise anyone to stay in the city but to go a few miles out.
The people in New Zealand dress equal & better in jewellery than the people in London. Some things are very dear & other things very cheap. Servants get from 12/- to 15/- per week ….. Nurse girls bout 8 or 9 & …get 7/- or 8/- per week & meat (?).
For a pair of boots soling & healing pay from 5/6 to 6/- per pair. Everything that is imported is very dear but all New Zealand manufactured goods very cheap.
All who intend coming over I will advise to bring all the money they can & as little luggage. Taking the voyage altogether is not as some people would make it appear to be. It is a terror to some people to make the attempt but abolish all such ideas for there is nothing whatever to fear. The only things I would advise people to do is to keep up their spirits for the first week & then all sickness is over & are ready to face all, and to bring with them a little flour & a few dried herring & a pot of jam or 2, a few onions & a bit of smoked bacon as other bacon will not keep, any kind of boots to wear as the salt water spoils good boots. Nothing but slippers are worn till you pass through the tropics & then you begin to experience a little rough weather which is enjoyable for you can see 100’s of porpoises & sharks bound to & fro when it is rough.
Trade in Auckland at the present is anything but good. People must not believe when they see reports now that labour is scarce & in great demand. There are 100’s of people out of employment now because they will not go out of the city but some with a determination to get on & you will get on. You cannot tell the difference between man & master for both are …
Laura HALL outside LEBU, their home in Devonport,Auckland c1915 - ex GH.